Sewing Project - Pinafore Jumper

I had a desire to make a summer jumper.  This is very unusual for me but I said to myself - okay.

The pattern was based on Cross Back Apron I made a few years ago.  

It hangs on your body from the shoulders and is easy to sew and easy to wear.  It just slips over your head and it adjusts to size very nicely.

I still had this apron so I chose that as the basis of my new project.

I had some purple fabric that I was going to use for the outer layer.

After some thought and discussion I decided to use microfiber for the lining.  It would be slippery, dark and make the garment not see through.

It was a deep purple color so fortunately it would be okay with the fabric I had chosen.

I decided to make the lining  my pattern since I had lots of that fabric and could cut another if I needed to.

Since the apron did not meet in the back I knew I would have to add some including a seam allowance for the back seam.

Top Left - I added a wedge in the front by leaving the top on the fold and added a good amount in the front and some to the length too.

Back - I added several inches - this would fall about mid back for me.

Back - I then kept the angle down to the bottom hem area and added length.

Front Bib - Added just a bit for a seam allowance.

I sewed the back seam and then "tried it on" to see if it was going to be big enough and not too tight.  It seemed pretty good.  I did cut a piece of brown paper as a pattern.

I had to change my mind about the outer fabric because the width of the first fabric was not wide enough.  I chose a tie dyed white cotton from a duvet cover I bought for the fabric.  That was plenty wide enough to cut the piece.  I tried to keep the colors to the purple and turquoises in this fabric.  You can see some pink/coral on the straps and some at the very back.  It would be okay with the purple lining fabric, too.

I then sewed the back seam.  I then placed the 2 layers right sides together and sewed the top seam around the bib and across the back and back up the side of the bib.  I then turned the garment right side out and ironed it and top stitched. 

The straps were cut 3 inches wide, sewn and then ironed with the seam down the middle of the back side of the strap.  I top stitched both side of those.  I then sewed one end of each strap to the corners of the bib. 

Then I started figuring out where the straps should cross and where the other ends of the straps should be sewn to the back to hang properly.  Once pinned I sewed those in place with a square with back stitching.  I then folded it in half front wise and evened out the bottom edge and then folded it the other way and did a bit more adjustment. The bottom hem is .5 fold over then 1" hem sewn by machine.

It turned out nice but I felt it was a bit on the light color for me so I had a discussion with my sister about dying it.  I had purchased Rit Dye in Teal which is a hot water process.  I did not have what I needed to do hot water so I took the Dylon fabric dye she had in Sea Green.

With the cold water process the dye gets dissolved in hot tap water and the same with the salt. These are then added to the water in the plastic pail which is enough to cover the garment. 

The garment is wet before putting it into the dye bath and then it has to be stirred constantly for 30 minutes and then regularly for the next hour. I did it every 15 minutes.  Then the garment is rinsed until the water runs clear.  I did this in the white bathtub and that took 5 times.  I did dye some of my white flannel for unPaperTowels with the left over dye.  Once that was rinsed as well I just ran a small  regular load of laundry.

Here's the final pics.  It did even out the background so that is a good thing.  I was expecting to get more color than I got with this process.  I expect that a cold process may produce lighter results, maybe the color was supposed to this light but the water still had color in it.

Pockets - I am glad to have added the narrow strip on the slant of the pockets.  I did have to move them up about 3 inches and I forced myself to do right away otherwise it would have been frustrating to use them.

It was a great project.

It will go faster the next time as this was a learning process for making the pattern and the dyeing process.